Camber adjustment

[andrew84tran]

for a given level of toe out, i cant get any more camber out of my Ohlins PCV (on the camber plates, mind you they arent even maxed out yet). reason is camber and toe are not independent of each other and i cant get more negative camber without bringing my toe in.

question. aside from replacing my steering arms to get more thread for toe adjustment, will i be able to milk any more camber with these camber adjustment bolts (without my toe being affected)?

[daz]

question. aside from replacing my steering arms to get more thread for toe adjustment, will i be able to milk any more camber with these camber adjustment bolts (without my toe being affected)?

Short answer is yes camber bolts will allow you to obtain some more neg camber...

*waits for ChargeR to finish drawing*

what are your current specs?

[andrew84tran]

sorry if i was using the incorrect term when i was refering to steering arms, or are they called tie rod ends? im refering to the arm that has thread which you use to adjust toe. If someone can enlighten me...

i have a dc5 with -0.3 degree toe out at the front. and i believe max neg. camber with that level of toe is about -1.7 degrees which is what I have right now (been awhile since my last alignment)

[ChargeR]

for a given level of toe out, i cant get any more camber out of my Ohlins PCV (on the camber plates, mind you they arent even maxed out yet). reason is camber and toe are not independent of each other and i cant get more negative camber without bringing my toe in.

question. aside from replacing my steering arms to get more thread for toe adjustment, will i be able to milk any more camber with these camber adjustment bolts (without my toe being affected)?

As Daz Daz says you will get slightly more negative camber with camber bolts when compared to using the camber plates due to the way in which each affects the angle of the strut. I have prepared a picture to aid my explanation:



Imagine the image is representing a front view of the drivers side strut and the red circle is the lower ball joint. The red dotted line represents the height of the steering arm. Both struts have the same amount of negative camber. Because the steering arm is quite high adding camber with the strut top leans the steering arm in significantly toward the centre of the car. The camber bolts do this to a lesser degree since they tilt the knuckle and leave the top of the strut where it is and thus you will get slightly more camber before you run out of toe adjustment.

How much extra I don't know.

[andrew84tran]

Thanks for the picture! lol yeh i was picturing the same thing in my head and it makes sense. i understand how it works now. there are two bolts which hold in the strut at the knuckle. im assuming the camber bolt replaces the top bolt (furthest away from the ground)?