Buddyclub N+ Coilover install

[BRU51N]

hey guys,

i recently purchased a set of dc5r coilovers for my ep3, i was just wondering if anyone has written up a diy thread for an install, either ep3 or dc5?

from what ive read around, i need to purchase a pair of dc5r tie rod ends to be able to use this coilover for my ep3 (fronts only), could anyone confirm? is there any other modifications i may need to look at as well?

i would like to get this installed in the next few days, so any help would be really helpful to me.

thanks,
will

[ChargeR]

from what ive read around, i need to purchase a pair of dc5r tie rod ends to be able to use this coilover for my ep3 (fronts only), could anyone confirm? is there any other modifications i may need to look at as well?

Yes you will need to use DC5R tie rod ends. In addition you will have to cut the lower bushing on the rear dampers thinner as the space for it to fit in is smaller on an EP3 lower control arm compared to a dc5. I recently helped a friend with adusting the height on his DC5 RSDs on an EP3 and the rear lower bushings had been cut narrower before install.

i recently purchased a set of dc5r coilovers for my ep3, i was just wondering if anyone has written up a diy thread for an install, either ep3 or dc5?

Here is a very decent DIY from clubrsx: LINK

[BRU51N]

i cant seem to detach the tie rod end from the ball joint side. im tempted to whack the bolt thru, but at the same time worried i might damage something if i do.

will i be able to remove the the tie rod ends with it still linked to the strut itself? im planning to head out and buy some dc5r tie rods in the next few days, could someone give me an idea of what i will be paying for this part?

[ChargeR]

i cant seem to detach the tie rod end from the ball joint side. im tempted to whack the bolt thru, but at the same time worried i might damage something if i do.

will i be able to remove the the tie rod ends with it still linked to the strut itself? im planning to head out and buy some dc5r tie rods in the next few days, could someone give me an idea of what i will be paying for this part?

Don't whack the bolt that will damage it for sure. Go and buy a pitman arm puller like the one pictured below. Be sure to lubricate it well when you are using it and put a 20c piece or some other small piece of metal between the bolt of the puller and the tie rod end bolt to prevent damage to the tie rod end.

Pitman arm puller:


Alternatively if you can't be bothered doing this you can just undo the locking nut that locks against the tie rod end on the tie rod and then turn the tie rod until the tie rod end threads completely off the end of the tie rod.

I paid around $100 each for brand new DC5R tie rod ends from my local Honda dealer. I don't think this price was very good but I needed them urgently.

[BRU51N]

Don't whack the bolt that will damage it for sure. Go and buy a pitman arm puller like the one pictured below. Be sure to lubricate it well when you are using it and put a 20c piece or some other small piece of metal between the bolt of the puller and the tie rod end bolt to prevent damage to the tie rod end.

Pitman arm puller:


Alternatively if you can't be bothered doing this you can just undo the locking nut that locks against the tie rod end on the tie rod and then turn the tie rod until the tie rod end threads completely off the end of the tie rod.

I paid around $100 each for brand new DC5R tie rod ends from my local Honda dealer. I don't think this price was very good but I needed them urgently.

so ive completed the install today. i ended up undoing the locking nut and twisted the tie rod, however it put my alignment out of whack badly. i was hoping the steering wheel would be fixed straight after i get a wheel alignment but the shop reckons its the most the wheel can be adjusted. he's told me to undo the wheel and put it on straight?

should i just redo the tie rod ends evenly again and get them to re-do the alignment? by the looks of it i can see a fair bit of thread visible on the passenger side but not so much on the driver side.

could anyone suggest what i should do next?

[ChargeR]

so ive completed the install today. i ended up undoing the locking nut and twisted the tie rod, however it put my alignment out of whack badly. i was hoping the steering wheel would be fixed straight after i get a wheel alignment but the shop reckons its the most the wheel can be adjusted. he's told me to undo the wheel and put it on straight?

should i just redo the tie rod ends evenly again and get them to re-do the alignment? by the looks of it i can see a fair bit of thread visible on the passenger side but not so much on the driver side.

could anyone suggest what i should do next?

What were your alignment settings? I am particularly interested in front camber. The upper holes on the lower bracket that joins to the knuckle on the front coilovers are slotted to allow camber adjustment correct? If the camber was set mismatched this could be compounding your alignment issues. How much thread in mm is visible on each tie rod?

[tinkerbell]

should i just redo the tie rod ends evenly again and get them to re-do the alignment? by the looks of it i can see a fair bit of thread visible on the passenger side but not so much on the driver side.

sounds like the obvious thing to do!

[BRU51N]

What were your alignment settings? I am particularly interested in front camber. The upper holes on the lower bracket that joins to the knuckle on the front coilovers are slotted to allow camber adjustment correct? If the camber was set mismatched this could be compounding your alignment issues. How much thread in mm is visible on each tie rod?

not entirely sure if camber adjustments can be made, i dont have no aftermarket camber kits or anything.

ive fixed up the tie rod mismatch issue already, both sides have even threads showing, by the looks of it, the treading shows about 1cm worth of thread. toe setting was set to 2mm toe in at the fronts.

now that all components under the guards seem to be perfectly fine now.. the steering wheel is turned to a 2 o'clock position, and alignment is totally straight. alignment shop suggest that i cannot just turn the wheels straight and lock it in, i will need to undo the steering wheel and replaced in the correct (straighten up/12 o'clock) position. are these guys lying to me? i thought alignments fix that sorta problem?

[ChargeR]

You do have camber adjustment because the upper holes in the brackets that join the strut to the knuckle are slotted as pointed out in the pic below, unless they have changed this design on the more recent N+:



You can tilt the whole knuckle in before you tighten up the upper bolt to give some negative camber. If the camber is completely different from side to side this could cause issues.

[BRU51N]

ohhh i did notice that. i will redo everything again tomorrow. thanks for pointing that out for me chargeR.