BTW checking if your thermostat is phcked... its obvious but some people dont realise all you need is a thermometer and water in a saucepan. Heat up the water and keep an eye on the temp. When you see the valve open take a note of the temp and compare to the specs.
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well, since you gotta take it out to test it, most places wont bother testing and simply replace the thermostat if the car shows symptoms of failing thermostat...Originally posted by Haduken View PostBTW checking if your thermostat is phcked... its obvious but some people dont realise all you need is a thermometer and water in a saucepan. Heat up the water and keep an eye on the temp. When you see the valve open take a note of the temp and compare to the specs.
but i guess you are referring to DIY...... retired/
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yupp...dc2r... stock rims, axle back, CAI, cam gears. I usually get a yellow light at 500-530 (on and off) then consistent yellow light at 550. still only equates to 6 days of before I have to fill it up =(. In my Gen 1 integra I used to get 650km off it, but I would bring that right on the red, bad I know.Originally posted by tinkerbell View Postin a DC2???
in terms of the thermostat test: yeah, it would be probably be better off to change it anyway. but it just lets you know if you have been looking in the right place in finding a solution
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how's your shifting?? what precise rpms do you decide to shift??Originally posted by Haduken View Postfark.. I have been getting at least 600km per tank
alot of highway k's?? pls tell cause i get half that. actually im on 360kms now almost to the red E bit.. but not quite there yet. and it's a tuesday so i have to fill up cheaply. also my fuel meter was half gone when i had my thermo replaced, so maybe when i refill that's when a accurate result will arise.
lets all hope.
mobil better? atm i running BP ultimate mainly.
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well not getting it now that my thermo's been replaced. i've even thrashed it a few.. vtecing it and what not.. not much blacksoot.. there's still a bit.. but not as much as before.Originally posted by Rexxy View Posthmmm, thats not a good sign, i would be pretty worried about my engine if that started to happen.....
im still going to keep an eye on it though. i dont know things just aren't going right atm. buy a new car, gets hit a week later.. rubbish. so mcuh things i need to fix up on it and no time to get it all done =@!!
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shouldnt, the car is tuned to use 98o fuel (or at least at 95ron), anything higher you wouldnt see anydifference unless you have the timing changed accordingly, i think its a +1 or +2 timing to adjust it to use a higher ron. Tink or Cambo would be able to explain this in a more mechanical/scientific manner.....hehe
actually i think the car is tuned to 95ron, but 98 helps it with pinging and performance, and a timing adj or +1 or +2 tunes the car to 98ron.....so a 100ron used in a 98ron tuned car wouldnt be a bad thing...
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fezp: if your car continues to use alot of fuel you may want to get you ect (engine coolant temperature sensor) cheaked. its job is to tell the engine computre how hot the coolant is. the computre will use this and amount of air coming in to the engine to work out how much fuel to give the engine. if the ect sensor is reading to cold it will over fuel you engine. you may also what to get a tune up this includes fuel filter spark plugs and air filter.
hope this helps tried to keep it simple
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i dont know if this as been answered
but if you read your manual, you should be shifting around 2700-3000rpm at every gear
i have a VTI-R and that what it recommends, if you have a DC2R it could be different, but wouldn't be by much
have your car tuned (timing etc) a reg service wont do much
have your injectors flushed as well
by having a exhaust system you will lose 50km or so
you really should be aiming for 10l:100km with a few mods
another good tip is to reset your ECU and reset you fuel mapping also, it helps a little
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