What Power to expect form a DC5-R with mods

[CK1]

I'd like to see a nissan or evo that does 11s easily on a quarter mile....

so would i! o btw, i was just tryin to prove a point.... the fact that i mention 11s is just to emphasis on the fact that their both fast quater mile cars... and not the fact that they could be easily modded to achieve that sort of time on the quater mile

[TODA AU]

wow, u really know how to take all the fun out of modding, dont u, adrian

I think it's better if people completly understand how much money they can potentially waste on their cars.
Sure it's onlt a waste if you do it wrong or realise after you did it it's not what you wanted.
But there is a lot of investment in making something faster.
Though your old man would say, it aint broke, so don't try to fix it.
If you do it once & do it right, the innital outlaw may be more, but the total cost in the long run is much less.
Doing things twice or three times when you got it wrong the first time costs loads more.

The DC5 lends itself well to being modified but like all Honda's it's sensitive to combination.
Combination is everything.

[AKS200]

car

well im not looking fot huge HP. i have always liked honda's and have previously owned one(prelude VTIR 97) and now looking at getting a DC5-R. i was just curious about the power figures that i can get from the basic mods.

if i get a DC5-R it will be my daily driver and wil occasionally see the track.

[Jingers]

130kw is around the mark u will get with basica mods

[szymonsta]

completely agree with adrian. very good point, ive seen many of my friends waste thousands doing things on-the-cheap or not having a good idea of what they want or not doing their research..
and another excellent point, many of the ITR's components are very well tuned from the factory and unless u have the right well-designed and crafted aftermarket parts and the right combination, u r likely to decrease the performance vs stock..
this is much more of an issue with ITR's compared to most other cars eg S15, wrx etc..(this is also why it can be more expensive modifying an ITR compared to other cars..)

[Noel]

this is much more of an issue with ITR's compared to most other cars eg S15, wrx etc..(this is also why it can be more expensive modifying an ITR compared to other cars..)

I beg to differ, turbocharged cars cost double the money of NA tuning for total balance and proper tuning work. Turbocharged cars have more variables and "issues" to address vs NA cars. The reason why it seems cheaper in general because the majority of turbocharged cars generally work on increased bolt-on pipes and light cooling enhancements only.

Want a good comparison? Take a look at the Z Tune Nismo R34 or AU Mines' R34. Both cars in budget expenditure exceed cars of a similar class ala NSX. Not outright performance in one specific area but - Total balance. If you guys ever look through catalogues, check the core performance parts/prices of TRD, Nismo, RalliArt, STi, their parts make Mugen parts seem like a steal literally.

[Jingers]

yes what noel says its true.

For light tune its much cheaper for turbos but if u go full out. Look at it this way.

The turbo car still have the same components the NA car has in the engine and those need to be upgraded. Then you have the additionals that only a turbo applciation requires.

But i think the original posters comments was not based on a fully modified car.

[CK1]

spend 1 k on turbo car = potential 20~30kw gain atw

spend 1 k on NA car = potential 2~5kw gain atw

[sangers]

spend 1 k on NA car = potential 2~5kw gain atw

wow that $1k must have been spent on vinyl decals or something.

[AKS200]

car

Both turbo and NA cars are expensive to modify if you use quality parts. if i was to get a DC5-R, it would only have the basic bolt on mods( exhaust, filter). i would probably get coilover and upgrade the brakes.

[Jingers]

The following post is thanks to toda au copied from OZHONDA.

Whether you like one pitcular brand over another doesnt matter, you can see the basis of modification with track tendency in his post.

"Low budget – Std ECU
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final gear (EG: ATS)
#4 – Intake (Modify stock air box, Injen or Mugen + 2mm oversize throttle. (65mm)
#5 – Header + cat-back exhaust system (TODA S2000 exhaust now available)
#6 – Spec A2 camshafts / valve springs / fuel pressure regulator (Increase fuel pressure to 4.6k)
148~152kw

Medium budget – Std ECU
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy duty clutch
#3 – Lower final gear (E.g.: ATS)
#4 – Intake (Modify stock air box, Injen or Mugen + 2mm oversize throttle. (65mm)
#5 – Header + cat + cat-back system
#6 – Spec A2 camshafts / valve springs / adjustable cam pulleys / 2.2L stroker kit (basic) / fuel pressure regulator (Increase fuel pressure to 4.6k)
or
TODA 2.2L crate engine (as above)


High budget – best power delivery
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy duty clutch
#3 – Lower final gear (E.g.: ATS)
#4 – Intake (Modify stock air box, Injen or Mugen + 2mm oversize throttle. (65mm)
#5 – Header + cat-back system
#6 – Ported head / Spec A2 camshafts / valve springs / adjustable cam pulleys / 2.2L stroker kit (with rods) / fuel pressure regulator (Increase fuel pressure to 4.6k) / ECU / Dyno tuning
or
TODA 2.2L crate engine (as above)

Maximum effort (extreme budget)
#1 – Lightweight flywheel (Consider super single or twin plate carbon)
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final gear
#4 – Intake (Modify stock air box, Injen or Mugen + 2mm oversize throttle. (65mm)
#5 – Header + cat-back system
#6 – Ported head / Spec B, C camshafts / valve springs/ Titanium retainers / shaved rocker arms / adjustable cam pulleys/ fuel pump / 2.4L stroker kit / fuel pressure regulator / injectors / ECU / dyno tuning.

Race engine - Improved production car / drag
TODA 2.4L crate engine (As used in ASM car)
Includes quad throttles / dry sump / exhaust manifold / Tuning data for Motec M800
300hp – guaranteed

Forced induction
Supercharged… (Ok, but inferior in every way to turbo)
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy duty clutch
#3 – Vortech / Comtech supercharger kit
#4 – Injectors / Fuel pump / fuel pressure regulator – linear / ECU (Not E-manage or piggy back)
#5 – Header + cat back system
#6 – Spec A2,B,C camshafts / valve springs / adjustable cam pulleys / 2.2L stroker kit (Turbo with rods)

Turbocharged. (Maximum effort)
#1 – Twin plate clutch
#2 – Heavy duty gear set & upgraded diff
#3 – Custom turbo kit *
#4 – Injectors / Fuel pump / fuel pressure regulator – linear / ECU (Not E-manage or piggy back)
#5 – Cat + cat back system
#6 – Spec A2,B,C camshafts / valve springs / adjustable cam pulleys / 2.2L stroker kit (Turbo with rods)
or
TODA 2.2L turbo crate engine.

*NB: Turbo shouldn’t be too small. This will cause excessive thermal stress on engine.
Bolt-on turbo to std engine, use 450hp turbo minimum.
Eg: HKS 3037S
Std engine will produce 190rwkw @ 6psi with correct set-up
NB: Some popular intakes are not as good as they appear. (Chose carefully)
High compression & low compression forged pistons are available in both 2.0L, 2.2L.
Forged NiCr connecting rods are also available for both 2.0L & 2.2L
Rear diff can present problems after fitting heavy duty clutch.
Hyper single clutches not recommended for daily drivers
Much work needs to be done to improve handling of vehicle.
High power outputs require stronger engine mounts.
Comment away...
Cheers

Adrian

By request,
Bang for your buck – DC5R
As with DC2, The DC5 is pretty fussy when it comes to mods that actually work…
On the race track… The following parts are must haves…
Oil cooler / low temp thermo fan switch…
If you can’t afford a good aftermarket radiator, at least fit a low temp thermostat.
Both are better…. Suspension & brakes also need to be addressed.
These aught to be addressed before you chase any extra HP.
As for getting more power, Honda’s are pretty fussy…
The actual parts combination is everything…
It must be put together exactly right… I can’t stress enough how important this is.
Once it’s put together right, it can be tuned… This also should be spot on…
The three work together, if 1 side has a weakness, power suffers…
Examples: Your pipe dream combination isn’t right… Power suffers…
Your mechanic doesn’t really know what he’s doing… Power suffers…
Even with perfect combination & assembly, with crap tuning… Power suffers...
NB: When fitting a heavy duty clutch to a DC5R, the front and rear engine mounts should be attended to.
That is fill them with sikaflex or use Mugen inserts / mounts.
This will avoid the inevitable knocking on the floor under the driver of the exhaust system.

Minimum budget – Just a bit quicker…
#1 – Intake - Never use a SRI of any brand – CAI only (Eg: INJEN / AEM / GruppeM)
#2 – Header + S2000 cat + cat-back system (60mm minimum)
Power output: 116 ~118kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics- shootout)


Low budget – Sleeper (Quiet & quick)
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – Modified stock airbox (Aka Hondata)
#5 – Header + cat + JDM DC5R or Mugen cat back
#6 – Hondata K100
Power output: 120 ~122kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics- shootout)

Low budget – never going to get an ECU
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – Intake - CAI's deliver superior results.(Eg: INJEN / AEM / GruppeM)
#5 – Header + S2000 cat + cat-back system (60mm minimum)
#6 – Spec A2 camshafts / valve springs / head gasket 0.3mm
Power output: 126 ~128kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics- shootout)
NB: Add K100 ECU for 144~146kw

Low / Med budget – Never going to crack the engine open.
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – Intake - CAI's deliver superior results.(Eg: INJEN / AEM / GruppeM)
#5 – Header + S2000 cat + cat-back system (60mm minimum)
#6 – ECU + Dyno tuning
Power output: 128 ~132kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics- shootout)

Medium budget – Hate noise & Stop @ ECU
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – Intake – Modified stock / GruppeM or Pipe style CAI (NB: CAI loud @ WOT)
#5 – Stock exhaust system / or stock JDM DC5R exhaust system
#6 – Spec A2 camshafts / valve springs/ 0.3mm head gasket / ECU / dyno tuning / heavy duty engine mounts.
Power output: 136 ~138kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)
8600rpm rev limit

Medium budget – Stop @ ECU
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – Intake – CAI's deliver superior results.
#5 – Header + S2000 cat + cat-back system
#6 – Spec A2 camshafts / valve springs/ 0.3mm head gasket (Compression up from 11.0:1 to 11.4:1 / Titanium retainers / ported head / JDM intake manifold / ECU / dyno tuning / heavy duty engine mounts.
Power output: 148 ~150kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)
9000rpm rev limit

High budget – best power delivery
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive
#4 – JDM Intake manifold + CAI only
#5 – Header + S2000 cat + cat-back system
#6 – Ported head / Spec A2/B/C camshafts / valve springs/ Titanium retainers / adjustable cam gear - exhaust only / fuel pump / Forged pistons / Forged rods (For over 9000rpm) / injectors & fuel pressure regulator / ECU / dyno tuning / heavy duty engine mounts.
Nb: Additional head work that can/may need to be done includes shaving of rocker arms for cam clearance, re-shaping of valves, combustion chamber re-profiling.
Power output: 156+kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)

Products soon to be released...
- TODA Racing K20A 2.2L stroker kit
- TODA Racing K20A quad throttle sports injection
- TODA Racing K20A iVtec "Race" camshafts
- TODA Racing DC5R cat-back exhaust systems (Available now)

Race engine (Drag / Improved production car or better)
#1 – Lightweight flywheel (Consider twin plate / carbon )
#2 – Heavy-duty clutch
#3 – Lower final drive / transmission cross gear kit
#4 – Quad throttle sports injection + fabricated CAI duct / flue
#5 – Header + cat-back system
#6 – Ported head / Spec A2/B/C camshafts / valve springs/ Titanium retainers / adjustable cam gear - exhaust only / fuel pump / Forged pistons / Forged rods (For over 9000rpm) / injectors & fuel pressure regulator / ECU / dyno tuning / heavy duty engine mounts / baffled sump.
Power output: 165+kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)

Race engine – GTP production car (stock)
#1 – JDM flywheel & Exedy HD clutch
#2 – JDM exhaust manifold
#3 – JDM intake manifold
#4 – SPL (open) exhaust system
#5 – Std intake / stock air box – no modification permitted.
#6 – ECU / extensive dyno tuning / heavy duty engine mounts / baffled sump.
Power output: 120~122kw @ wheels (Dyno dynamics – shootout)

DC5 Base model – low budget
#1 – Lightweight flywheel
#2 – Heavy duty clutch
#3 – DC5R Gearbox & Lower final drive
#4 – Intake – CAI's deliver superior results.
#5 – Header + S2000 cat + cat-back system
NB: DC5R cat back can be used on base model with small mod to rear or base model cat.
Further modifying the airbox – Hondata style also adds a little power…
For those who aren't sure, automatic models do not have flywheels or clutches

Regarding modifying your car.
If you can’t afford to do it the right way, avoid the temptation to do something right now & save up until you can afford to get the right parts.
Obviously I recommend using only TODA products where they exist for the application.
Products from other manufacturers can be substituted with varying levels of effectiveness.

Ok… as before… Comment away...
Cheers

Adrian
TODA Racing Australia"

[CK1]

wow that $1k must have been spent on vinyl decals or something.

lol!!