new noob, buying ITR

[marz]

hey guys...
im new here to this forum, residing in melbourne..my old mans buying me a dc2R (pretty lucky) ive read thru the forums and have done backround research on the dc2r...im being anal retentive here, but since it will be my first car, i think i should be..just wanted to know wat to look for in a 2nd hand 'R what to check and also how to tell if its a genuine 'R...stupid question i know but i cant be blamed $23,000 aint cheap....CHEERS GUYS AND THANKS IN ADVANCE

[j0nbubz]

welcome dood!

whats your name? what do u do for a living? =D (wrong forum..? =P)

I'm sure the other DC2R owners can help you out in identifying whether its real.. =)

[K.C.]

problems i have with mine at the moment (135K Kms + inc 1000km worth of track):
vtec solenoid gasket, rear engine mount, clutch, clucth master, brake master.

things that i replaced since i own the car a year ago:
thermostat + switch, battery, alt+ps+ac belt

[Elwood]

hey bud.. i recently bought a type r and found these problems (120km - used for street)

4th gear syncro teeth gone..
clutch at the end of its life
worn recaro's
rear engine mount.
100,000 service (timing belt and all that) costs abit

if i were you, make sure u give the car abit of work on its test drive, go through all gears and listen for any clunking or irregular noises.

a genuine 'R' has the plaque under the handbreak.

for 23,000, id try to get one with like 70,000 kms on it..

good luck


oh, and buy one off a forum!

[hebe]

A non-genuine R can also have the plaque so that's not the best way to determine if it's a genuine or not.

[SPL_K]

check the usual engine number, vin number, 5 lug brakes, lip on the front and rear bumpers, no door molds, updated head lights. interior the driver side and middle console have cf inserts while the passenger has normal inserts those are the only ones i can think of off the top of my head.

engine number should be something liek this B18C7-xxxxxxx

[fueltank]

Once you've found one you like and have placed a deposit.
Get a receipt saying you get the deposit back if it does not pass the RACV inspection report to YOUR satisfaction.

Then pay a few hundred for the RACV inspection where they put it on a hoist and everything. Any problems (that aren't major or you can live with) found can be used to leverage a better purchase price.

[Elwood]

^ exactly what i did.. except

the report only told me that the car had a cracked gearbox mount, and didnt say anything about the 4th gear syncros and the clutch..

so make sure they do a good inspection :P

[marz]

thanks for the quick response guys,
jonbubz- my name is marlo, from the western suburbs of melbourne...will update on progress of me getting the car *woot!*

[marz]

oh and btw elwood, i dont have the privileges yet to look at the cars for sale in this forum, are there any decent ones in melbourne or sydney on this forum?- thanks

[euGeR]

^ exactly what i did.. except

the report only told me that the car had a cracked gearbox mount, and didnt say anything about the 4th gear syncros and the clutch..

so make sure they do a good inspection :P

I dont think its realistic for a report to pick up a "latent" failure. If there was a problem at the time, I'm sure something would have noted.

Somethings you can't tell unless you pull the thing apart.

A cracked gearbox mount could mean that the previous owner drove it pretty hard .. or flat shifted alot.

When buying a 2nd hand car ... especially any type of "sports" car .... I would leave some sort of buffer for repairs - for 120k clicks ... I don't think a clutch and a sync is to bad ... it's the price of ownership