Best Oil for our beloved Hondas

[danielj]

is 300v worth the extra cash over 8100?!

[freakygeek]

is 300v worth the extra cash over 8100?!

Not in a road car. Pretty sure 300v is a low / no detergent oil therefore not really suited to long drain intervals or street use. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong though.

[danielj]

Not in a road car. Pretty sure 300v is a low / no detergent oil therefore not really suited to long drain intervals or street use. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong though.

Yeah, I thought so, but I've got a trackday coming up. Wondering if it'll be noticeable on the track?!

[ChargeR]

Not in a road car. Pretty sure 300v is a low / no detergent oil therefore not really suited to long drain intervals or street use. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong though.

Yeah, I thought so, but I've got a trackday coming up. Wondering if it'll be noticeable on the track?!

I think that 300V will work well, and I wouldn't hesitate to use it for a track day and a short/moderate oil change interval. Looking at the specs it has a reasonable TBN, 5W-40 data sheet is below for reference, and I believe it is ester based so should have reasonable detergent properties just because of that. Best to be cautious and keep the oil change interval shorter rather than longer though as I've never heard it recommended for extended intervals.

EDIT: The spec sheet:

[tinkerbell]

Wondering if it'll be noticeable on the track?!

if you notice anything at all about your oil whislt driving on the track, you are obviously concentrating on the wrong thing!!! lol

but seriously - what are you expecting to notice?

[sleepingperformance]

I run Penrite in all my customers cars and have not had a single complaint. I have had customers that swear by x & y brands and after trying Penrite, will never go back.

In B series engines that get street driven, I use HPR10 10W50 & for track work I use 10 Tenths Racing 15W50.

K Series (low mileage) I use HPR5 5W40, HPR10 for high mileage. Track driven, I use 10 Tenths Racing 10W40 or 15W50.

Another thing to remember is that as an engine wear, you do need to increase your viscosity, otherwise you can start yo get glazed bores as the oil is too thin and causing slight ring to bore contact. This in turn leads to higher oil consumption and lower cylinder pressures.

I know a person in Sydney who has recently purchased an Accord Euro with around 300,000km on it and the person who sold the car said it was burning alot of oil. The new owner put HPR30 20W60 and thrashed the Euro for a good six weeks and changed the oil 2-3 times in this period. Oil consumption no longer excists and he has dropped back to HPR10

[tinkerbell]

The new owner put HPR30 20W60 and thrashed the Euro for a good six weeks and changed the oil 2-3 times in this period. Oil consumption no longer excists and he has dropped back to HPR10

well, you cant rule out that thrashing teh car for the same time with 10-30 oil wouldnt have done the same thing - can you?

[Lonewolf]

personally using Motul

[ahofnar]

I use amsoil 0w30 or mobil1 if im too lazy to order. Ran that in the k20 for 9 years. Even aften after blowing it up, all of the internals were spotless...minus the upside-down valve and hole in the block. I can show a picture of the old cams if you guys are curious.

[sleepingperformance]

well, you cant rule out that thrashing teh car for the same time with 10-30 oil wouldnt have done the same thing - can you?

A thicker oil with very good detergents is going to clean out an engine much better than a thin oil with the same detergents. You also don't run the risk of having the oil sheer on you due to the thinner viscosity

[tinkerbell]

A thicker oil with very good detergents is going to clean out an engine much better than a thin oil with the same detergents. You also don't run the risk of having the oil sheer on you due to the thinner viscosity

while that may be true,

in science, correlation does not imply causation.

to prove that the oil was the cause of the change, you need a controlled test.

1. an accord euro with 300'000km that is burning oil running Type Y oil
2. an accord euro with 300'000km that is burning oil running Type X oil

thrash them in exactly the same way, then measure oil consumption.

then draw concluison of the independent variable - the Type of oil.

your example has two variables - the driving style and the oil.

unfortunatley - with no control test, you cant say whether the oil was the cause, or whether simply thrashing the car was the cause, or a combination of both...

likewise, if the owner had simply changed the oil and driven normally, you dont know that perhaps simply the oil made the difference... (which would be a much more grandiose finding to claim)

[ChargeR]

A thicker oil with very good detergents is going to clean out an engine much better than a thin oil with the same detergents. You also don't run the risk of having the oil sheer on you due to the thinner viscosity

Why does a thicker oil with the same detergents clean better? Also why does a thinner oil have a higher tendency to shear down? Shearing down to lesser viscosity affects all oils to varying degrees, and is dependent on what the base is and what additives they put in it, you cant say that one particular oil will have greater shear stability just because it's thicker.

Also do you have any idea why the fellow with the Accord you mention before had improved oil consumption afterward? By what mechanism did the Penrite oil fix the problem he had before?

[ahofnar]

You guys should really take a look at that link i posted on page 26. It explains oil completely. All oils are actually the same thickness once at operating temperature. The only thing that viscosity measures is the thickness of oil when it is cold. The guy who wrote the article is a double doctorate and he tracks his cars. The dude is a bit overwhelming with some of his words, but the message truly enlightens you to how oil really works.

[mugsee]

You guys should really take a look at that link i posted on page 26. It explains oil completely. All oils are actually the same thickness once at operating temperature. The only thing that viscosity measures is the thickness of oil when it is cold. The guy who wrote the article is a double doctorate and he tracks his cars. The dude is a bit overwhelming with some of his words, but the message truly enlightens you to how oil really works.

Which part mentions that all oils are the same thickness (viscosity?) once at operating temperature? Would this mean that a 5W-20 oil is the same as a 5W-50 oil viscosity wise, once up to operating temperature?

[ahofnar]

It starts on Chapter 2 but use this if you want a down and dirty on oil viscosity/wear. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/motor-oil-104/. I would highly suggest reading all the chapters. It's basically a book he wrote on oil and its analysis. It includes his exotic cars, which he takes to the track.