Ideas for the build! DC5R

[cartoon]

Def go k24. For the money u save on a k24 over a k20 you can put it back into the k24

[Tiana]

Guys I have more questions.
What is the absolute necessities when putting a supercharger kit on my k20?
Is it only injectors, fuel pump and valve springs? If so, tell me the best brand to go for all of these.

[Hau]

Read some of these links. They will help. You might have to sign up though. Clubrsx has everything you need to know as our engines are the same as their prefacelift type s
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=561759

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=126526

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=497654

[Stephen_AUS]

Hau, I definitely will be doing all of the minor things such as ecu and tune as I already have headers and an exhaust.
Not really concerned about the price but I dont want to be spending over 5-6 k on mods. Dont see the point.
I think if I did a k24 bottom end ill be in for a lot more money than a supercharge kit.

Stephen, you have some really good points on supercharging it. Is there any particular reason you chose rotrex? And also, is it preferable to change internals such as cams to jap spec or is it barely necessary, could anyone just throw a supercharge kit on a standard engine. Do k20s have the capacity to handle it!?

I choose rotrex being a centrifugal charged setup and more so probably more easier to cool as you can route a Intercooler with a good fabber. As for internals. Cams will help it a bit if you are keeping it stock block. But as for boost wise, I think a safe maximum would be around 10psi. Which IMO would give gains up to 350hp ATW.

Obviously a lower compression engine will be much more suited for more boost so you have to be fairly careful how much you run. But yeah. This is what I know from my bulk of research.

[Tiana]

Im definitely supercharging it stephen. I think ill run it around 6-8psi. I want it to remain healthy. You obviously changed your fuel system as well as the injectors as supporting mods yes? If so, which injectors did you replace them with?

[sleepingperformance]

If you are going to use a rotrex, this would be a good place to start http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1226125

The K series motors can get away with decent boost levels (10-12psi) due to the camshaft profiles. You can run upto the 350-400kw mark on stock cams (this is on pump fuel, e85/race fuel is different) Aftermarket "turbo" cams are designed for built, low compression engines that have big laggy turbos, but you can get supercharger specific cams from a few companies. The other thing with cams, is they usually shift the power band higher up, so for street it is not worth it.

In regards to other parts, injector dynamics 1000cc would be a good choice, due to the fact that they are very good for precise tuning. At idle, you wouldnt even know it had aftermarket injectors. I would also upgrade fuel rail & swap in a walbro 255 fuel pump, along with good quality headers & a 3in exhaust to see the best gains.

Depending on boost levels & IAT's, you will also need to think about intercooling

[Stephen_AUS]

Im definitely supercharging it stephen. I think ill run it around 6-8psi. I want it to remain healthy. You obviously changed your fuel system as well as the injectors as supporting mods yes? If so, which injectors did you replace them with?

If you are going to use a rotrex, this would be a good place to start http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1226125

The K series motors can get away with decent boost levels (10-12psi) due to the camshaft profiles. You can run upto the 350-400kw mark on stock cams (this is on pump fuel, e85/race fuel is different) Aftermarket "turbo" cams are designed for built, low compression engines that have big laggy turbos, but you can get supercharger specific cams from a few companies. The other thing with cams, is they usually shift the power band higher up, so for street it is not worth it.

In regards to other parts, injector dynamics 1000cc would be a good choice, due to the fact that they are very good for precise tuning. At idle, you wouldnt even know it had aftermarket injectors. I would also upgrade fuel rail & swap in a walbro 255 fuel pump, along with good quality headers & a 3in exhaust to see the best gains.

Depending on boost levels & IAT's, you will also need to think about intercooling

What he has go there is pretty much spot on. I'd more be in hp than kw, you'd be dreaming to get 350kw on stock motor ... more so blow it before you get that.

If going rotrex, going with a better flowing intake mani, bigger tb, good flowing headers, 2.75in exhaust at the minimum 3in for maximum flow, 1000cc injectors (ID's or RC's) and also fuel rail, intercooler is highly recommended!

Just for your own reference this is what I am planning on going with.

TTS Rotrex C38-81 DIY Kit - 110mm Pulley (10psi roughly)(Smaller pulleuy = more boost)
Considering C30 for efficiency ~
10 Row Oil Cooler for Supercharger
600x300 Intercooler
Custom Piping
Xcessive K20 Manifold
76mm Throttle Body (unsure of brand)
Injector Dynamic 1000cc Injectors
Hybrid Racing Fuel Rail & Fuel Line Tuck
Walbro 255lph Fuel Pump
ASP Big Tube Headers
3in Custom Titanium Exhaust (Resonator & Muffler)

[sleepingperformance]

I wouldn't waste your time with the Xcessive manifold. I would recommend the All in Fabrication intake & exhaust manifolds, along with a 74mm throttle body at a minimum

[Stephen_AUS]

I wouldn't waste your time with the Xcessive manifold. I would recommend the All in Fabrication intake & exhaust manifolds, along with a 74mm throttle body at a minimum

Xcessive Manifold, whys that? Ive never knew All In did intake work. Let me know the deets, definitely interested if price is similar. But I'd be keeping with ASP headers as I'm quite a big fan of their work!

[sleepingperformance]

The plenum & runner design on the All in Fab intake manifold is alot higher than the xcessive. I will PM you prices shortly for the manifold. Also if you are after any HR stuff, post it up on the group buy and I will PM you back at the same time

[45SET]

My old car was a DC5R with a K24, I have driven a DC5R with a K20a2T, and sat as passenger in a DC5R K20a2S/C.

When I built my K24, I made sure I got a late model K24a2 (2008 model with slightly better head and oil cooler), I also changed a few other things to ensure there was no problems with the oil pickup. Overall, 169FWKW, "220"Nm (I use that number lightly, as dyno’s aren’t the greatest for picking up torque figures) from idel-8,000 RPM, and a lovely car to drive. Never had a problem with it, and put it all together in the back yard with the help of some friends.

The DC5RT I drove was really nice, mainly due to the owner DOING HIS OWN RESEARCH, and building git himself. Had a smaller turbo, so it didn’t suffer from lag at all, and still made plenty of power to redline. I think the car was slightly faster then my old car, but when driving, had a similar feeling.

The DC5RSC used a Jackson Racing kit, and was nuts! The whine that thing made was insane, and it did make some ridicules numbers... BUT... It went through a couple of stock gearboxes before the owner spent a fair bit of money strengthen it (Here is the car in question)

Overall, I'd probably go the K24 over the K20SC/K20T (Can’t divide the SC & T options). Main reasons I liked the K24 option so much was that it was basically a OEM engine. The only parts of the engine that didn’t come out of a Honda factory were the baffle in the sump (J’s Racing), and the Skunk2 throttle body. Also the fact it was still N/A, and I personally just love the feeling of an N/A engine.