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A crash course in transmissions and shifting (to potentially avoid grinding)

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    A crash course in transmissions and shifting (to potentially avoid grinding)

    I was searching for some information about Honda MTF2 and came across the following thread from BITOG, which contained some interesting information written by a tech from Honda America about S2000 gearboxes and shifting techniques. I thought this was a great read and thought I'd share. The original thread is here.


    I've highlighted the most interesting part which will definitely benefit a couple of people here. I've seen how some of you drive...
    "I am the woodwork and I work for American Honda.
    I am writing this to hopefully help S2000 owner/drivers understand the importance of shifting properly to minimize the damage to 2nd gear synchronizer rings. I'm not the Warranty Police but will from time to time quote warranty policy when I read things like "Shifting without the clutch".

    My overall objective being in the woodwork is to keep S2000 owners from hurting themselves and hurting their cars. Everytime a transmission or engine gets replaced in an S2000 I get the part. I've seen a lot of damaged transmissions.

    Before flaming me please read this and keep an open mind.

    You have an engine that revs to 9000 RPM. That means that the transmission mainshaft and clutch disk are also revving to 9000 RPM. When you disengage the clutch (push in the pedal) to shift from first to second the engine and the transmission are disconnected. The engine will slow down from compression when you lift off the throttle. The mainshaft of the transmission is not connected to the engine any more so it is freewheeling in the transmission. Given enough time the mainshaft will slow down but not as fast as the engine. The countershaft is connected to the rear wheels and the speed stays constant during the shift.

    When you shift into 2nd gear the synchronizer of the 2nd gear must SLOW DOWN the transmission mainshaft to match the speed that the engine WILL be going when the shift is completed and the clutch is engaged.

    The transmission mainshaft and the clutch disk together weigh 19.75 lbs. (not including the pressure plate and flywheel that are connected to the engine) When you shift from 1st to 2nd at 9000 RPM the engine speed drops to 5900. That means that the little brass synchronizer rings have to push on the 2nd gear to slow the mainshaft from 9000RPM to 5900 RPM. It not only has to slow down the mainshaft it has to do it in the time that it takes you to shift. So if you have a tendency to shift fast you may be making the sleeve blow past the synchro rings before it has a chance to do it's job and it will smash into the 2nd gear.

    The early '00 cars needed a little change to the sleeve to make the synchros work a little harder. That is what the new parts in the service bulletin are for. Cars after VIN YT006255 already have the new parts. Grinding in a car produced later than 6255 is possible if the synchros have been damaged and now are not able to slow down the mainshaft properly.

    Shifting without the clutch, or, shift too quickly and not letting the synchros do their job may permanently damage the gear, sleeve and synchros and make the 2nd gear grind more often.

    It makes sense that if shifting at 6000 makes the engine speed drop to 4300 RPM, (1700) into 2nd gear then you should give the 2nd gear synchro twice the time to do the shift from 9000 RPM.

    If your car does grind once in a while you may not want the transmission removed, disassembled and a new 2nd gear put in. If it does it quite often, show it to the dealer and have it replaced.

    If you hesitate for another 1/2 second while putting constant pressure on the shifter while the 2nd gear synchro does it's job, I'll bet many of your cars would not grind any more. Try it. You might like it.

    Added 5-2-03:
    Skipping gears:
    I have seen many 6th gear sleeves that have been damaged.

    The typical story is this: Stop light, 1st gear, engage the clutch, rev to 9,000 RPM, shift quickly to 2nd, rev to 9,000 RPM, same into 3rd, look down and find the car going 80 MPH on a city street and the engine noise is screaming, recognize that any cop is going to write a ticket. Shift to 6th quickly to lower engine noise.

    Dragging the mainshaft speed down from 9,000 RPM to 4,000 when going from 3rd to 6th takes time. 6th gear has only a single synchro ring and it doesn't like it. It will grind if you are shifting hard and fast. By shifting hard the synchro ring does not have time to slow down the main-shaft and the sleeve will slip over the synchro and grind the gear. If the sleeve is ground enough in 6th then it will not slide the other way to engage 5th.

    So if it is hard to get your car into 5th or 6th it may be because the sleeve is being damaged by skipping gears. Hope this makes sense.


    Woodwork "
    Last edited by mugsee; 16-11-12, 02:15 PM. Reason: Fixed the broken link to the original thread.
    Official ClubITR Sponsor: www.autosphere.com.au - For all your maintenance, oils and track needs.

    #2
    Good read. I've skipped to 5th and 6th gears before as well when cruising.
    ClubITR | Like

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      #3
      I'm glad I got out of the habit of skipping gears when cruising..

      THanks for the share.
      Integra Type R
      Integra Type S
      S2000

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        #4
        you can still skip gears, just use the double de-clutch method (just like you would to get into 1st whilst rolling)
        ... retired/

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          #5
          Originally posted by tinkerbell View Post
          you can still skip gears, just use the double de-clutch method (just like you would to get into 1st whilst rolling)
          Oh good.
          ClubITR | Like

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            #6
            Interesting read. This agrees with my experience, I've always been really careful with 2nd and 3rd gear changes in the DC5, since they are known to cause issues. However because I'm an idiot and smash change into 4th on track the 4th gear synchro is starting to show the effects of me forcing it in too fast.

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              #7
              so is it saying you should clutch in wait for revs to drop a bit before shifting into the next gear to avoid issues?

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                #8
                Originally posted by jboi View Post
                so is it saying you should clutch in wait for revs to drop a bit before shifting into the next gear to avoid issues?


                Slower shifting on the street doesn't hurt, and helps prolong the gearbox. It could also avoid unnecessary crunching if you experience it.
                Official ClubITR Sponsor: www.autosphere.com.au - For all your maintenance, oils and track needs.

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                  #9
                  Originally posted by jboi View Post
                  so is it saying you should clutch in wait for revs to drop a bit before shifting into the next gear to avoid issues?
                  almost, it is more saying to "wait for the synchro to do its job"

                  i.e. if you are not:

                  putting constant pressure on the shifter
                  you are not really encouraging the synchroniser ring to influence the gear sleeve (i.e. 'do its job')...

                  in much the same way that you can *feel* the gears when changing with out using the clutch at all, similarly you can *feel* the synchro working to equalise the speeds of the components when shifting with the clutch in, but you must be placing pressure on the shifter in the direction of the gearchange you are attempting to make for it to work properly...


                  go and test it out - you will learn a bit if you are not too fearful...

                  but i'll admit that you poor guys with cable shifters (DC5) are at a disadvantage to us guys with solid shift linkages (DC2), but you never know until you try...
                  ... retired/

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                    #10
                    and the important note about 6th gear is that it has a baby synchro ring compared to say 2nd gear, which in some cases has double syncho cones (B series VTEC boxes)

                    (basiclaly because you are more likley to be shifting at MAX rpm from 1st to 2nd than from 5th to 6th)

                    this means that sixth gear is more fragile and has to be treated more gently compared to the lower gears...
                    Last edited by tinkerbell; 20-11-12, 09:47 AM.
                    ... retired/

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                      #11
                      Interesting read... I usually downshift when slowing down from 6th gear to 4th maybe 3rd depending on traffic, but i do so by rev matching, should I still be worried? I notice that when shifting to 5th, it feels more 'notchy' that usual too. Might get a tranny oil change soon.

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                        #12
                        Originally posted by BAU53 View Post
                        Interesting read... I usually downshift when slowing down from 6th gear to 4th maybe 3rd depending on traffic, but i do so by rev matching, should I still be worried? I notice that when shifting to 5th, it feels more 'notchy' that usual too. Might get a tranny oil change soon.
                        do you double clutch the shift or is it a rev-match with the clutch down?

                        i wouldnt worry about it, at street speeds it wont cause any uneccessary wear on synchros, provided your not ramming into the gate.

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                          #13
                          Thanks mugsee........just a little too late for me but this old dog can learn

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                            #14
                            Originally posted by fr4n View Post
                            do you double clutch the shift or is it a rev-match with the clutch down?

                            i wouldnt worry about it, at street speeds it wont cause any uneccessary wear on synchros, provided your not ramming into the gate.
                            I just rev match with clutch down, its debatable on whats better, but i just can't seem to nail double clutching 6th to 5th or 3rd to 2nd, feels awkward to me. I do rev match after a nice vtec run lol but it falls at the right rpm smoothly, no jerking.

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                              #15
                              A crash course in transmissions and shifting (to potentially avoid grinding)

                              Originally posted by BAU53 View Post
                              I just rev match with clutch down, its debatable on whats better, but i just can't seem to nail double clutching 6th to 5th or 3rd to 2nd, feels awkward to me. I do rev match after a nice vtec run lol but it falls at the right rpm smoothly, no jerking.
                              Don't need to double clutch when downshifting one gear at a time. It's only necessary when dropping 2 or more gears

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