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2000 DC2R B18C7 Rebuild

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    2000 DC2R B18C7 Rebuild

    Hi All,

    Am looking to do a rebuild on my engine as it's losing about 700ml per 1000klm depending on driving conditions. Also, at oil change times, theres little slivers of metal on my magnetic sump plug when I remove it, and it's not just a few.

    I want to source the parts for a rebuild, but was hoping someone had a sensible list of whats needed. The car has done 120,000 klms.

    Not looking for an all out race engine as this is a daily driver, and luckily, it's only 6klm to work each day.

    At 100K, it had a new water pump, belts, plugs and tensioner, so am trying to decide if these parts should be replaced?

    I have an ex-HK mechanic friend to help me do the build, he used to work on the Honda Civic's and Integra's that were in the Macau races, but he wants me to go with higher compression pistons etc, again, it's a daily, and I am not 20 yrs old haha, but once a year the car will be tracked,

    So advice on parts, gasket kits etc, I want this engine like it just came from the factory again, and not have to feed it so much oil.

    Any advice would be appreciated.

    Tseesinngwailo

    #2
    I'd put new plugs in it certainly when you rebuild it, but the water pump, tensioner and belts should be fine for another 100k.

    If you liked it the way it was why not just pull it down and rebuild it with oversize OEM pistons/bearings as necessary? The pistons are cheap: LINK, the bearings are too and if the machining and assembly is done properly you'll get OEM like performance and reliability. Add to that new OEM valve stem seals, guides, a full OEM gasket kit (head gasket, rear main, manifold gaskets, valve cover gasket etc.), and any other various bits and pieces like new valves (whatever needs work once you pull the motor apart) and you should have another decade of trouble free motoring.

    Comment


      #3
      how come your losing so much oil?

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by fr4n View Post
        how come your losing so much oil?
        from the wording of the post it could be from oil ingress into the combustion chamber i.e. past the rings or past the valves...

        but the presence of metal shavings indicates very poor treatment of the engine in the past, and leads one to assume the cylinder bores are damaged and the oil is being drawn in past the rings...

        the metal in the oil will have damaged nearly all/all of the metal to bearing interfaces and this means extensive machining may be required to return the engine to *original condition*, in this case, it may be less expensive and much faster to source a low KM long block...

        and like ChargeR has said, a rebuild will require:

        oversize pistons set (not the one that linked above, as these are low compression ones)
        new conrod bearings
        new crank bearings
        bottom end gasket kit
        top end gasket kit
        machine bores (bore + hone)
        machine crank
        new bearings

        and *possibly* require:

        new piston pins
        new conrods
        new camshafts
        new valves
        new valve guides
        or
        new head (depending on the camshaft journals)

        it needs to be removed and stripped down to assess...
        ... retired/

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by tseesinngwailo View Post
          He wants me to go with higher compression pistons etc, again, it's a daily, and I am not 20 yrs old haha
          Raising compression will not affect driveability, in fact, it increases it
          Honda Nationals, September 9-10, get amongst it!

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by tinkerbell View Post
            from the wording of the post it could be from oil ingress into the combustion chamber i.e. past the rings or past the valves...

            but the presence of metal shavings indicates very poor treatment of the engine in the past, and leads one to assume the cylinder bores are damaged and the oil is being drawn in past the rings...

            the metal in the oil will have damaged nearly all/all of the metal to bearing interfaces and this means extensive machining may be required to return the engine to *original condition*, in this case, it may be less expensive and much faster to source a low KM long block...

            and like ChargeR has said, a rebuild will require:

            oversize pistons set (not the one that linked above, as these are low compression ones)
            new conrod bearings
            new crank bearings
            bottom end gasket kit
            top end gasket kit
            machine bores (bore + hone)
            machine crank
            new bearings

            and *possibly* require:

            new piston pins
            new conrods
            new camshafts
            new valves
            new valve guides
            or
            new head (depending on the camshaft journals)

            it needs to be removed and stripped down to assess...

            How much for that with labour roughly? Just curious? My car might need this in 10 years, lol..

            Quote:
            Originally Posted by justinfox
            You can modify many crappy cars out there to be faster than a real Type-R but no matter how fast they are they still don't knock the Type-R off it's "pedestal" which it so deservedly sits on. :P

            JHDM-B18C7 >>>>> Source Code: DC2R 00-0016 SOLD


            Comment


              #7
              LOL maybe buy one of these http://www.jdmconcept.com.au/part/js...egra-dc2-94-00
              sigpic
              128.8kw Atws @ 1065kg - 13.875 sec @ 100.26 mph http://forum.clubitr.com.au/showthre...ion&highlight=

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by Karl View Post
                Considering thats the price of what an average DC2R is selling for on the market.. Go figure!

                Quote:
                Originally Posted by justinfox
                You can modify many crappy cars out there to be faster than a real Type-R but no matter how fast they are they still don't knock the Type-R off it's "pedestal" which it so deservedly sits on. :P

                JHDM-B18C7 >>>>> Source Code: DC2R 00-0016 SOLD


                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by DC2R View Post
                  How much for that with labour roughly? Just curious? My car might need this in 10 years, lol..
                  3-5 grand
                  ... retired/

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Bargain considering!!! ;-)

                    Quote:
                    Originally Posted by justinfox
                    You can modify many crappy cars out there to be faster than a real Type-R but no matter how fast they are they still don't knock the Type-R off it's "pedestal" which it so deservedly sits on. :P

                    JHDM-B18C7 >>>>> Source Code: DC2R 00-0016 SOLD


                    Comment

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