Hey guys
Seems that fitting a K24 to a DC5R is all the rage at the moment, so thought I would write up a "How to". This thread is all the stuff I used, so obviously you don't need to follow what I did (You can do more or less if you choose). Personally, I feel that the modifications I've done have made for a GREAT base for more modifications, as I've looked after the oiling issues (Which the K24 can have at high RPM), the reving issue (With use of the 50' VTC), and breathing issue (70mm TB, RBC & 3' exhaust).
Below is a list of items you should have to hand before you even consider starting this swap:
- Honda Integra - DC5 Chassis
- Honda K24 series engine (Do research of the K24 before you pick the one you are going to use. There are several different series of K24's, and they all differ slightly, as some are used for the Accord Euro, while others are used for the CRV)
- Hondabond/Permatex ultragrey and 12mm honda bolt for hole in bearing cap #3
- Longer 10mm bolt for oil pump (only 2 of 4 will work)
- MTF 3 bottles
- Coolant
- Loctite red/blue? for flywheel bolts
- Spark Plugs
- Water pump seal - Optional
- Yellow permanent marker for subframe
- K-series valve cover gasket
- K24 Upper radiator hose
- K24 Thermostat housing hoses
- K20 Crank Pulley* (smaller pulley) to keep same belt (keep k24 pulley->custom belt)
- K20 idler pulley*
- K20 Alternator *
- K20 Power steering pump *
- K20 Water pump *
- K20 Air Conditioning pump *
NOTE If you swap all the above "*" items over form the K20 to the K24 you can run a K20 serpentine belt, which makes the entire process easier. Obviously if you remove anything (eg A/C) you need to find a new belt.
- K20 Mid-shaft
- K20 Starter Motor
- K20 fuel rail/Injectors
- K20 Lower radiator hose (trim to length)
- K20 Engine harness
- K20 Thermostat housing
- K20 Crank Position (angle) Sensor
- K20 Oil Pressure Sending Unit
- K20 Knock Sensor
The above is a fairly basic list of parts that are needed. Obviously there are other parts such as intake, clutch, headers etc, but the above are the little things you need.
Next up you need to go to the following site Spoonertuner.com
And download the following manuals:
RSX
RSX 2002-2003 DC5 includes Type-S K20A2 K20A3 USDM
TSX
TSX 2004 USDM Repair Manual NON-HELMS
If you have access to a printer, print the following pages
RSX
- Suspension/driveshafts/swaybar pp885-888, 892-894
- Engine removal/installation pp100-116
- Relieve fuel pressure pp397-405
- Radiator pp235
- Oil Pan pp194
- Oil Pump installation pp197-209 pp120
- Clutch/flywheel pp456-461/170
- VTC pp131-145 pp120
- Valve cover pp163-165 pp120
- Intake manifold and exhaust pp212, 216, 221
- Water pump, Coolant/thermostat pp229, 230-234
- Midshaft pp816
- Power steering/drive belt pp831, pp 73
- Tie rods pp850, 853, 870, 873
- Front bumper 1054
TSX
- ENGINE – 2400cc - K24 VTC - Valve adjustment pp60-106
- ENGINE LUBRICATION – oil pump removal - pp15-18
Obviously, if you have a laptop, and can shift it around, you won't need to print the above, but having the paper does make it slightly easier.
Following are some posts down on various forums my friends found that are things to look out for (Note: These are from US sites):
- The a/c low press hose wont clear properly the rbc. Even if it does, one hard launch and the manifold will crush the fitting on the hose and you can kiss it goodbye. however, here is a solution:
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=645927
- Note! if using k20a3 harness, you will have to re-wire the tps. its very easy to do. if the wires go into the harness like this ----->123, you will rewire it like this ----->321. you simply reverse the outside wires. you may also have to extend the wires.
- Before installing the upper radiator hose, pour coolant directly into the fitting for the upper radiator hose on the engine itself, if you don't do this, the motor WILL overheat.
- If your going from a k20a3 to k24a2 you will have to extend the wires to the iat sensor. This is important, I ****ed this up and got a load of errors from using the wrong cal and couldn't understand why. If you're using a k24a2 from a 04-05 tsx, do yourself a favor, get the latest update of kmanger and click on open, scroll all the way down to the bottom of the cal list, and low and behold, 04-05 tsx stock. load that cal up. go through it real quick, uncheck the following boxes:
Disable idle valve (idle tab)
Countershaft driven speed sensor (if you don't uncheck this box you will never hit vtec) (misc tab)
Also check the following in K-Manage:
- Multiplexer-normal operation (misc tab)
- Make sure you go into the gear comp tab and select the proper transmission
- If installing a RBC to a K24 the bonnet won't shut properly because one of the vacuum lines hits the bonnet. You have to gently hammer this until it bends enough to shut the bonnet.
- The only sensors you can get mixed up is the map sensor and the tps. The map sensor is connected to another sensor as well and the tps is all by itself.
- When installing the subframe grease up th inside of where the front engine mount is going to go to ease installation. Install axles and rear engine mounts before bolting subframe up all the way.
- If K24 is an auto you will need a pilot bearing 22103-PNA-003 pilot bearing
If you're installing a K20 oil pump (Recommended) you'll need to do the following
- Take off cam chain first then oil pump.
- You need a 1.5mm pin for auto tensioner
- You need a longer 10mm bolt for bottom of oil pump
- You need hondabond and 12mm bolt to plug oil jet on third bearing cap
There are a HEAP of pictures and detailed comments in my build thread. So have a read through that before, as it'll probably answer anything I've left out here. Otherwise I'm happy to help out where I can.
ENJOY
Robi
PS - I'm not a mechanic, so I accept no responsibility if you try this swap, and anything negative happens. If you aren't confident with working on the mechanics of a car, I wouldn't recommend you try this yourself, and have a professional do it.
Seems that fitting a K24 to a DC5R is all the rage at the moment, so thought I would write up a "How to". This thread is all the stuff I used, so obviously you don't need to follow what I did (You can do more or less if you choose). Personally, I feel that the modifications I've done have made for a GREAT base for more modifications, as I've looked after the oiling issues (Which the K24 can have at high RPM), the reving issue (With use of the 50' VTC), and breathing issue (70mm TB, RBC & 3' exhaust).
Below is a list of items you should have to hand before you even consider starting this swap:
- Honda Integra - DC5 Chassis
- Honda K24 series engine (Do research of the K24 before you pick the one you are going to use. There are several different series of K24's, and they all differ slightly, as some are used for the Accord Euro, while others are used for the CRV)
- Hondabond/Permatex ultragrey and 12mm honda bolt for hole in bearing cap #3
- Longer 10mm bolt for oil pump (only 2 of 4 will work)
- MTF 3 bottles
- Coolant
- Loctite red/blue? for flywheel bolts
- Spark Plugs
- Water pump seal - Optional
- Yellow permanent marker for subframe
- K-series valve cover gasket
- K24 Upper radiator hose
- K24 Thermostat housing hoses
- K20 Crank Pulley* (smaller pulley) to keep same belt (keep k24 pulley->custom belt)
- K20 idler pulley*
- K20 Alternator *
- K20 Power steering pump *
- K20 Water pump *
- K20 Air Conditioning pump *
NOTE If you swap all the above "*" items over form the K20 to the K24 you can run a K20 serpentine belt, which makes the entire process easier. Obviously if you remove anything (eg A/C) you need to find a new belt.
- K20 Mid-shaft
- K20 Starter Motor
- K20 fuel rail/Injectors
- K20 Lower radiator hose (trim to length)
- K20 Engine harness
- K20 Thermostat housing
- K20 Crank Position (angle) Sensor
- K20 Oil Pressure Sending Unit
- K20 Knock Sensor
The above is a fairly basic list of parts that are needed. Obviously there are other parts such as intake, clutch, headers etc, but the above are the little things you need.
Next up you need to go to the following site Spoonertuner.com
And download the following manuals:
RSX
RSX 2002-2003 DC5 includes Type-S K20A2 K20A3 USDM
TSX
TSX 2004 USDM Repair Manual NON-HELMS
If you have access to a printer, print the following pages
RSX
- Suspension/driveshafts/swaybar pp885-888, 892-894
- Engine removal/installation pp100-116
- Relieve fuel pressure pp397-405
- Radiator pp235
- Oil Pan pp194
- Oil Pump installation pp197-209 pp120
- Clutch/flywheel pp456-461/170
- VTC pp131-145 pp120
- Valve cover pp163-165 pp120
- Intake manifold and exhaust pp212, 216, 221
- Water pump, Coolant/thermostat pp229, 230-234
- Midshaft pp816
- Power steering/drive belt pp831, pp 73
- Tie rods pp850, 853, 870, 873
- Front bumper 1054
TSX
- ENGINE – 2400cc - K24 VTC - Valve adjustment pp60-106
- ENGINE LUBRICATION – oil pump removal - pp15-18
Obviously, if you have a laptop, and can shift it around, you won't need to print the above, but having the paper does make it slightly easier.
Following are some posts down on various forums my friends found that are things to look out for (Note: These are from US sites):
- The a/c low press hose wont clear properly the rbc. Even if it does, one hard launch and the manifold will crush the fitting on the hose and you can kiss it goodbye. however, here is a solution:
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=645927
- Note! if using k20a3 harness, you will have to re-wire the tps. its very easy to do. if the wires go into the harness like this ----->123, you will rewire it like this ----->321. you simply reverse the outside wires. you may also have to extend the wires.
- Before installing the upper radiator hose, pour coolant directly into the fitting for the upper radiator hose on the engine itself, if you don't do this, the motor WILL overheat.
- If your going from a k20a3 to k24a2 you will have to extend the wires to the iat sensor. This is important, I ****ed this up and got a load of errors from using the wrong cal and couldn't understand why. If you're using a k24a2 from a 04-05 tsx, do yourself a favor, get the latest update of kmanger and click on open, scroll all the way down to the bottom of the cal list, and low and behold, 04-05 tsx stock. load that cal up. go through it real quick, uncheck the following boxes:
Disable idle valve (idle tab)
Countershaft driven speed sensor (if you don't uncheck this box you will never hit vtec) (misc tab)
Also check the following in K-Manage:
- Multiplexer-normal operation (misc tab)
- Make sure you go into the gear comp tab and select the proper transmission
- If installing a RBC to a K24 the bonnet won't shut properly because one of the vacuum lines hits the bonnet. You have to gently hammer this until it bends enough to shut the bonnet.
- The only sensors you can get mixed up is the map sensor and the tps. The map sensor is connected to another sensor as well and the tps is all by itself.
- When installing the subframe grease up th inside of where the front engine mount is going to go to ease installation. Install axles and rear engine mounts before bolting subframe up all the way.
- If K24 is an auto you will need a pilot bearing 22103-PNA-003 pilot bearing
If you're installing a K20 oil pump (Recommended) you'll need to do the following
- Take off cam chain first then oil pump.
- You need a 1.5mm pin for auto tensioner
- You need a longer 10mm bolt for bottom of oil pump
- You need hondabond and 12mm bolt to plug oil jet on third bearing cap
There are a HEAP of pictures and detailed comments in my build thread. So have a read through that before, as it'll probably answer anything I've left out here. Otherwise I'm happy to help out where I can.
ENJOY
Robi
PS - I'm not a mechanic, so I accept no responsibility if you try this swap, and anything negative happens. If you aren't confident with working on the mechanics of a car, I wouldn't recommend you try this yourself, and have a professional do it.
. A couple of changes I would make:
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