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    Camber Bolt problem - DC5

    Hey guys,

    I am going to be installing camber bolts into my front suspension after the smash repairs is done, i noticed something weird today though when fiddling with the camber plates...





    I know that when adjusting for Neg camber, the cam will bring the hub assembly in BUT there seems to be that little piece of metal inbetween the top strut bolt ends thats sitting really close to the shock body.

    Does this mean i won't be able to use camber bolts?

    Stevan

    #2
    Putting them in the bottom hole of the strut will give you the best chance of getting a bit of camber out of them. On my car that little nub sticking out of the knuckle did indeed bottom out and hit the strut body at full negative camber adjustment.

    You could just take the knuckles out and grind it off.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by ChargeR View Post
      Putting them in the bottom hole of the strut will give you the best chance of getting a bit of camber out of them. On my car that little nub sticking out of the knuckle did indeed bottom out and hit the strut body at full negative camber adjustment.

      You could just take the knuckles out and grind it off.
      oh man, much dissapointment

      What is the purpose of the nub, is it structural? May consider grinding it off if its uneccessary, seriously can't get anything right with this suspension lol!

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by stevan View Post
        oh man, much dissapointment

        What is the purpose of the nub, is it structural? May consider grinding it off if its uneccessary, seriously can't get anything right with this suspension lol!
        I'd say it would be perfectly safe to grind a small amount of material off, it is most likely just an extra bit of the casting hanging off where the molten metal is injected into the the die or mould. The police or your local road authority might not see it the same way.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by ChargeR View Post
          I'd say it would be perfectly safe to grind a small amount of material off, it is most likely just an extra bit of the casting hanging off where the molten metal is injected into the the die or mould. The police or your local road authority might not see it the same way.
          Hmm i will need to find someone with a ball joint separator to remove the front suspension and see how much room i can get out of it. I doubt it will ever be noticeable if i am neat and spray with some black paint afterwards.

          Why do most people reccomend doing the top bolt rather then the bottom when swapping to camber bolts??

          Oh btw check this out...(need another alignment )

          Comment


            #6
            You can try double hammer technique Steve to try get the ball joint loose. Or just be lazy and grind it on the car.

            Make sure whoever you find has a pit man puller. Hard race roll centre adjusters are quite fat and you don't want to split to boots. I'm a little iffy about using fork types.

            Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2
            Wakefield: EG B18CR - R888 - 1.09.9
            Eastern Creek: DC5R - RE001/ER300 - 2.00.8
            Winton: DC5R - RE001 - 1.45.9

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              #7
              hey thanks for advice Kevin.

              I had wheel place install the camber bolts on the lower strut bolt, will have to fix it properly eventually though. One crazy thing was my buddyclub rear camber kit was MAXED out at 2.2 degrees..... I thought they could go to like -4???

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by stevan View Post
                hey thanks for advice Kevin.

                I had wheel place install the camber bolts on the lower strut bolt, will have to fix it properly eventually though. One crazy thing was my buddyclub rear camber kit was MAXED out at 2.2 degrees..... I thought they could go to like -4???
                That doesn't sound right?!

                I got 2.4 or 2.5 degrees just from buddyclub n+ on the rear?
                S2000
                WSID : TBA
                Wakefield : 1:10.1

                Flippit Photography
                Smooth As Detailing
                Incar Racing

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Flippit View Post
                  That doesn't sound right?!

                  I got 2.4 or 2.5 degrees just from buddyclub n+ on the rear?
                  you are correct, it is retarded lol!

                  I will remove some white wheel (lol) from the rear of my car and measure the length of the buddyclub arm and see if its longer then oem, might getaway with natural camber with OEM one instead of purchasing a hardrace one.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by stevan View Post
                    hey thanks for advice Kevin.

                    I had wheel place install the camber bolts on the lower strut bolt, will have to fix it properly eventually though. One crazy thing was my buddyclub rear camber kit was MAXED out at 2.2 degrees..... I thought they could go to like -4???
                    2.2 is a lot lol compared to my mate.. maxed out at 1.5 hahahah he went and bought hardrace the next day

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by iversonruls View Post
                      2.2 is a lot lol compared to my mate.. maxed out at 1.5 hahahah he went and bought hardrace the next day
                      did he get much more out of the hardrace? My regas scrubbed slightly at 2.2 so around 2.5-2.7 should suffice

                      Comment


                        #12
                        my hardrace ones seem to gain more rear camber. Compared them to stock and must easily get more than 2.2
                        1995 Honda Civic EG (K20)
                        1998 Nissan 180SX Type X (SR20)
                        2010 Volkswagen Golf GTI (Emission Monster)

                        RHCP
                        F1 Nut

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                          #13
                          Originally posted by dnapol View Post
                          my hardrace ones seem to gain more rear camber. Compared them to stock and must easily get more than 2.2
                          thats's the whole point of getting aftermarket camber arms, they should accommodate a wide range positive and negative of OEM, seems buddyclub yet again fail.

                          Alex had a buddyclub arm and was getting a lot more out of it, they seem to have been made to allow you to INCREASE positive camber for super low cars that were getting too much camber from natural drop.

                          I think from now on hardrace should be the only camber arm for DC5 as it is more effective for 99% of people and won't snap in half

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by stevan View Post
                            thats's the whole point of getting aftermarket camber arms, they should accommodate a wide range positive and negative of OEM, seems buddyclub yet again fail.

                            Alex had a buddyclub arm and was getting a lot more out of it, they seem to have been made to allow you to INCREASE positive camber for super low cars that were getting too much camber from natural drop.

                            I think from now on hardrace should be the only camber arm for DC5 as it is more effective for 99% of people and won't snap in half
                            I havn't installed mine yet, but their build quality seems amazing. and only 150 delivered, seemed a good investment anyways, time for ITR meet, laterz
                            1995 Honda Civic EG (K20)
                            1998 Nissan 180SX Type X (SR20)
                            2010 Volkswagen Golf GTI (Emission Monster)

                            RHCP
                            F1 Nut

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Seems that ppl with the buddyclub P1 kit have had alot of varied results in regards to the camber they've been able to yield..
                              Integra Type R
                              Integra Type S
                              S2000

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