B series best head and block combos

[BEE18C]

Of all the hybrid ways you can make a b series work what is everyones thoughts on the best combo??B20R?

[Fezzi]

Longetivity/revs higher without risk(compared to B20 build) - B18c7 (aus) or just the b18c (type r jap spec)

Most power but not longetivity good at high revs - B20B bloc with type r head (b16 or b18) with itr cams

Or just turbo a b18 motor for power

You've got the Ls vtec and stuff but i reckon those are probs the best way? Could be wrong but this is just my opinion of all the research I've done.

[BEE18C]

Ive got a b18c turbo in my circuit car back home , but its quite tempromental things always coming loose and braking youve gotta really stay on top of it, i think the best base at the end of the day will be b18cr or b16b ive been doing some research on b20 conversions not so sold on the idea

[Karl]

I was looking at the K24 engine conversion by ByP in our vendors. 10 G for 140kw Atw..

Ive spent like 2.5G on IHE and Tune on my dc2R and i have 129 atw...

But really i think 10 G would be better spent on a turbo'd B18c rather then a K20

K20 is better,, Not 10 G better in my opinion, No were near..

[Pizzo321]

I was looking at the K24 engine conversion by ByP in our vendors. 10 G for 140kw Atw..

Ive spent like 2.5G on IHE and Tune on my dc2R and i have 129 atw...

But really i think 10 G would be better spent on a turbo'd B18c rather then a K20

K20 is better,, Not 10 G better in my opinion, No were near..

Now im Assuming everytime you wrote "k20" you mean "k24"? lol

K24>B18, you will not get the same torque,low end or mid range power out of a B18 (even with boost,and if you do its going to cost you big)then what you can out of a K24

What you gotta realise is to gain power N/A is costly..My car for Example(K20 not K24) had 125kw STOCK..now i have 155kw and its cost me close to $7000...you want power you gotta be prepared to dish out some cash

Now with the turbo B18,you would me pushing close to about 160kw maybe? and about 205nm of Torque?Someone correct me if im wrong.

Put my K20 against that B18 Turbo,yes the B18 would win but it would probably be ahead by no more then a foots length.

Each to their own i guess,my opinion is you get the K24 conversion

[Karl]

Now im Assuming everytime you wrote "k20" you mean "k24"? lol

K24>B18, you will not get the same torque,low end or mid range power out of a B18 (even with boost,and if you do its going to cost you big)then what you can out of a K24

What you gotta realise is to gain power N/A is costly..My car for Example(K20 not K24) had 125kw STOCK..now i have 155kw and its cost me close to $7000...you want power you gotta be prepared to dish out some cash

Now with the turbo B18,you would me pushing close to about 160kw maybe? and about 205nm of Torque?Someone correct me if im wrong.

Put my K20 against that B18 Turbo,yes the B18 would win but it would probably be ahead by no more then a foots length.

Each to their own i guess,my opinion is you get the K24 conversion

Yer i no what your saying. Dont think worth it.. Leave the b18 as a high compression motor and run low boost.. Like 6 psi.. Be around guessing 160kw atw.. Not adding alot of weight.. Compared to a K24 conversion.. And because of small turbo and still high compression there shouldn't be no lag!!

Also don't no how true. I heard all that extra weight of the conversion throws off the handling quite bad!! Tell me if wrong id like to no

[BEE18C]

Cheers for the advise guys but i think il stick to n/a just to keep reliability for the track as wat im looking for is just a weekend track car atm

[cordz]

Just a comprehensive comparison off my head; so feel free to comment if you disagree!

K24 conversion

Cost: $9500 (BYP)

Power: 140kW atw

Advantages: All traits of a a N/A engine - reliability, cooling, linear power delivery, throttle response, fuel consumption, low-end drivability over N/A B series. K-series will always make more torque than a N/A B18 based on displacement and also boasts better response to N/A tuning, therefore has potential to see 160 - 180kW atw naturally aspirated. Engine sound.

Disadvantages: Torque may be better, but is outright potential is limited by displacement and N/A characteristics. Manifold design is difficult for turbo charging.

Turbo B series


cost:
American turbo kits come in at around 3500-4500, to include extra necessities such as computer, clutch, injectors, FPR, pump, boost controller etc. Setup without touching compression/internals/head can be under 8000 easy.

Power: 150kW - 200+kW

Advantages: A type R b series head is made for boost (figuratively), factory port polishing and big profile cams make a great partner for turbocharging. Therefore a reliable figure of 180-220kW atw is realistic. Torque from forced induction is superior.
Price. A/C ad P/S can be retained on smaller turbo kits.

Disadvantages: reliability depends on quality of tune. Brute power + torque strains the longevity of consumables. Fuel costs. Heat regulation of B series set-up. Aggressive power delivery. Legality (engineering, screamer pipes). Turbines munch up the beautiful engine note that comes from a N/A B18c7. You want more boost be prepared to prepare (block, head, clutch, injectors all need upgrading - $$$)

[cordz]

Yer i no what your saying. Dont think worth it.. Leave the b18 as a high compression motor and run low boost.. Like 6 psi.. Be around guessing 160kw atw.. Not adding alot of weight.. Compared to a K24 conversion.. And because of small turbo and still high compression there shouldn't be no lag!!

Also don't no how true. I heard all that extra weight of the conversion throws off the handling quite bad!! Tell me if wrong id like to no

less than 2kg difference.

reference - http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=879294

[BEE18C]

My civic circuit car is 300kwatw b18c with forged bottom end and standard head with itr cams the motors reliable its everything around it that suffers like dip stick always melting and because the turbo heat heads straight for the block youve gotta watch oil and water temps very closely on hot days, plus front tyre wear and fuel consumption is rediculous, also the engine mounts have broken clean off the motor before.... ahh well Its all work it when you can straight line a GT3 Porsche tho!

[Karl]

i think your boosting more then i said.. Im saying leave car stock and run a low 6 psi.. Shouldn't cost to much.. And tune so you dont run lean.. Thinkin around 6 to like 10 g max.. At the end of the day. it is a FF no point having power you cant put to the road..I think 200kw atw MAX is more then enough on a tone platform!!!!!!

[BEE18C]

Yeah stil gonna go n/a i think cant beat that sound!my civic makes 300kw but the tyres its got give it good grip after 2nd gear lol, they recently banned aviation fuel in nz so had to be re tuned on pump gas 98 to 360 hpatw on 15psi its actually a little more driveable too, keen to have a go at n/a tho,the cars from nz motul Honda cup wernt far off my times and their all n/a with at most 300hp cos they cant floor it round corners in them i think

[BEE18C]

Im liking the idea of all these egs getting itr motor and suspension conversions to 5 stud nice base for a track hack

[cordz]

My civic circuit car is 300kwatw b18c with forged bottom end and standard head with itr cams the motors reliable its everything around it that suffers like dip stick always melting and because the turbo heat heads straight for the block youve gotta watch oil and water temps very closely on hot days, plus front tyre wear and fuel consumption is rediculous, also the engine mounts have broken clean off the motor before.... ahh well Its all work it when you can straight line a GT3 Porsche tho!

Haha the turbo life! The dipstick must be a real pain in the arse!

anything ceramic coated, heat wrapped or bagged?

[BEE18C]

Lol yeah mate the turbo life , exhaust is heat wrapped but the but that stops it from falling it melts!Under bonnet temperatures get crazy lucky theres always some1 with a b series dip stick around! I think it needs its on shield around it