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Rebuilding for more boost!

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    #91
    Rebuilding for more boost!

    Awesome to see it all coming together for you, that engine bay looks outstanding[emoji1305]


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    02 Indy Yellow s2000::::::04 Arctic Blue Pearl DC5R::::::05 White B2600::::::10 Ibis White Q5

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      #92
      Thank you for the kind words.

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        #93
        Had the week to sort the little things. Boost gauge line kink sorted, removed the cooler piping and painted the parts in the engine bay. Next was remove the down pipe and screamer pipe made easy with v bands and well designed to be removable, not just fit and forget! Exhaust heat wraped and refitted.
        Got a chance to put a fue Kay's on the car today and it felt great!
        Attached Files

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          #94
          So I haven't posted on here for a while. I now have 500 plus Kay's on the engine but in that time I have had my o2 sensor totally die and not read as well as developed a real odd engine noise!😭😭 I had no real idea what may have gone wrong, before the rebuild i had the same odd noise only on the return to idle. The revs would stick at 1500 rattle and then drop to idle only at normal oil temps. Now the sound would accure at light throttle between 2000 to 3000 and get louder as oil temp came up to normal! Aswell as the idle return noise was back. Oil pressure was staying above 70psi in that rev range.

          I was racking my brain for a fue weeks and did not want to drive the car in case I was damaging the engine. I did some digging on the inter web thingie and found the exact noise to accure on the k24 commonly. The noise turned out to be the vtc actuator on the end of the intake cam rattling.

          So this ment timing Chain and cams all had to come out with the engine in the car!!!!😡😡😡😡😡 I am lucky to have a chain guide over the crank sprocket this allows me to remove the chain with out the chain coming off the crank sprocket and maintaining correct timing😉 A fue Hours latter I had the vtc off and found it clogged with dirty oil. Odd as oil changes have been always been done and with good oil. I am putting it down to the run in oil and assemble lube. Also the extra strain of the stiffer vale springs loading up the vtc actuator and chain system. I replaced the vtc actuator with a new one.

          So with the cams, chain and tappets all done I then fitted a new o2 sensor and now I am now where I should have been about a month and a half ago. I hit the dyno this week so I hope it holds together.😬

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            #95
            I had the car on the dyno last night. First happy was it did not brake! Second happy was 371hp or 280 kW on 17.5psi fading to 15.5psi at the wheels. the turbo is starting to show its limits and choking the power up top but this is something I was expecting with a .63 rear housing on a turbo of this size. I am not looking to change at this time but to make more power i would need to go bigger.

            My last set up was not slow and now I am making more power before 5500rpm and 110 more hp in total so I don't think I will be left wanting more any time soon! Wheel spin and intake temps were a battle all night. On the 371 run in take air temp started at 32c and the last 500rpm is a wheel spin dip. I was unable to road test as it was raining. Most important the fuel and timing are safe and the car felt smooth and clean on the rainy drive home.

            Iam still yet to get wheel alignment and I will fix that boost fade in the boost by gear and rpm then start on the traction control setting and learning how to drive it with the extra power!
            Attached Files

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              #96
              So I finally got a chance to change out the tie rod ends as I wanted a little more clearance. I changed out to a set of hard race inverted tie rods. Then also got a wheel alignment to front -1.3 camber and zero toe caster is up around 3-4 positive with offset spherical bearings and -1camber and zero toe for the rear. I find this set up great on tyres and good turn in and mild predictable rotation but dose tram track a bit. I go a lower camber to help traction up front and I am not doing track speeds around corners on the streets.

              This gave me a chance to finally have a feel of the new power on a closed Mexican road. it's a hand full that's for shore! it eats up the road so fast you have to think a long way ahead! Not a car for you average or inexperanced driver! Torque steer is not that bad, it dose move around but with the wider Jdm track,the spherical bearings,caster and factory lsd it's acceptable.

              It's been Almost a year since I have been able to drive my car and give it some stick and it feels awesome. Next is to hit some twisties.

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                #97
                Exciting times ahead!
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                  #98
                  It's been forever but Back again with an update on the car. I unfortunately had the turbo seal starting to leak and the car would smoke bad. I could have resealed it but I have decided to replace it.

                  I have spent months working out what I believe was the "perfect size turbo" for my set up and expectations for reliability, spool and overall power band. The seven that stood out to me were percision 5858, 6062 and 6262 aswell as garretts gtx3076,gtx3582 gtx3576 and gtw3476. Using turbo maps people's experiences and dyno graphs I decided on the gtx3076 gen2.

                  My research exposed percisions reliability to sometimes be questionable, the gtw almost as expensive as the gtx range if optioned to ball bearing. The gtx3076 and gtx3576 to be rated exactly the same! Back to back dyno results also showed same power on the same boost with the 35 spool to be within 200rpm. The only thing that was different was the extra $400 for the 35. The gtx3582 is great for top end and a killer turbo for roll or drag but I enjoy the twisties and a strong mid range. FOR ME the gtx3076 was the one but any of the above seven would work extremely well for k20-k24 engines.

                  From my old turbo The rear housing is a little bigger and compressor is also a bit bigger. the old turbo air flow is rated 300-450bhp so I was working it to its upper flow levels. The new ones size is not much bigger but air flow rated 450-750bhp due to better billet design. This should allow me to run lower boost levels to get the same or more power. Less boost =less heat =more timing =more power.

                  I have to make up water lines, compressor housing is at the chromers already and I will need two new sized silicon hoses. Then fit it up, wind it up and let it go!
                  Attached Files

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                    #99
                    I am happy to report that all my fitting and water lines are in! Fitted up the water fittings and oil fittings to the turbo today. Only one was incorrect and the local shop was happy to change it on the spot.

                    Also decide to paint the exhaust side with high temp exhaust paint (1050c rated) but Iam not sure if it will last with the heat? looks a lot better at least for now.

                    Should have the chromed compressor housing back next week I am hoping. So just a quick update and some pics for today.
                    Attached Files

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                      Old smokie is out and the new turbo is in. It is much the same size and fitting. For the water cooling lines I have used the cooling lines that once went to the throttle body. I had not used them in some time. this worked well with dash6 hose. The only issue I have found latter was the oil drain is now further back and touches the shifter cable. So I will remove the 45 fitting and change out for a 90 to clear.

                      After one gentle drive the turbo seems a tiny bit slower to get to zero boost but after that it is way faster to boost. I guess that the bigger .82 rear housing and the better compressor wheel kicking in. Even with less than ten pound boost on a third gear roll on induced wheel spin at around 4000rpm.
                      Attached Files

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                        Thought I would give a quick update on the car as it is now. I came across a fibreglass bonnet that had been damaged in and accident some time ago. I have very little Esperance working with fibreglass so I thought it would be a easy learning experience. How wrong was I!

                        quick or easy it was not. The bonnet was a lot worse that it first looked when the paint was removed. The front edge need to be completely remade. So with guidance of a friend we fixed the large brakes and my main lessons of does and dont's. For there I was on my own.

                        I can't believe how much filling sanding filling and sanding again then sealing and sanding again, so many hours of my life! Although sounding negative I learnt so much and now have the confidence to take on future fiberglass projects.
                        Attached Files

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                          After the repairs were done I then cut it up to fit up the bonnet latch/pins. That was an enjoyable part to do as I could start to see a result starting to begin. Once I finished the prep work on the bonnet it went down to the local panel shop for paint. The whole ideas of this was to be able to learn a new skill and build/repair instead of just buying something new from someone! I am happy with the results.

                          I also had the wheels repainted from the gold to a gun metal which made the car look a lot different. Also got the lips machined at the same time. This is something I have been keen to do for so long so I finally bit the bullet. To make the front bar easy to pop on and off I fitted some press releases that make it a breeze for one person it fit or remove it in almost no time at all.
                          Attached Files

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                            Fresh!
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